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On July 1, a rarely seen train captured the attention of onlookers at the Colombo Fort Railway Station. Arriving at platform 3, the Viceroy Special, reminiscent of the early years of Sri Lanka Railways (SLR), paused as it eagerly awaited a gathering of enthusiastic diplomats, including US Ambassador Julie Chung, Japanese Ambassador Mizukoshi Hideaki, and many others including those accredited to Sri Lanka but based in New Delhi.
The ‘Viceroy Special’, made of wood and air-conditioned to suit the present day, started its journey from Colombo Fort at 7.30 am just like a royal train that was used by the British during the introduction of railway service to Sri Lanka. The two conductors of the train were wearing special headgear as in the British era.
The meticulously organised ‘Ella Odyssey’ trip was arranged to mark the 75th anniversary of Sri Lanka’s independence and diplomatic relations with the rest of the world.
Another key objective of this special trip organised by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the President’s Secretariat and the Sri Lanka Tourism Development Authority (SLTDA) was to promote foreign tourism to the country through the envoys.
Wondrous journey
During their wondrous journey, Muturajawela, Attanagalu Oya and the Ketawala anicut displayed the beauty of the Western Province despite its urban surroundings while the many tunnels, the Bible Rock and the Utuwankanda Rock of the Upcountry Railway Line were prime examples of the country’s geographical diversity despite its small size. The Japanese Ambassador had also commented on the mountain ranges including Batalegala and Utuwankanda, visible in the distance along the upland route after Rambukkana demonstrated the ecological diversity of the country.
The train briefly paused at the Lion Nose point in Kadugannawa to allow passengers to enjoy the amazing vistas. There, the delegation was allowed to see the natural beauty of the highway below and the mountains in the distance. Knowing that the train passes under a stone mountain with a ‘lion’s nose’, it got the name Lion Nose, so they took a picture of its beautiful views and went to the observation room at the end. They had never experienced such a vista before in other countries.
The passengers were treated to information about the triangular Peradeniya Railway Station during a brief stop where Indian High Commissioner Gopal Baglay, President’s Chief of Staff Sagala Ratnayake and some more guests joined the trip.
Mountain ranges
It was only then that the Viceroy Special train journey became even more beautiful. The mountain ranges visible in the distance appeared as if they were rising to greet this group. The delegation was also given the opportunity to see the natural beauty of the Galboda waterfall, which flows parallel to the railway line from the vicinity of the Inguru Oya railway station. The train ran very slowly at these places to give a better glimpse of the unfolding scenes to the VIP guests on board. Also, the train stopped for a while at some places and the delegation was shown the different vistas.
The passengers were greeted by the amazing and misty views of the Hill Country, thereafter, including the sacred Sri Pada (Adam’s Peak) mountain. The train also stopped near St. Clare’s Falls and the Upper Kotmale irrigation/power project. All the Ambassadors, High Commissioners, diplomatic officers and their relatives who travelled on the train, took pictures of St. Clare’s Falls with their mobile phones and SLR cameras.
The foreign delegations inquired about how the railway line extends like ‘P’ near the Rosella railway station and how it was built. They found the experience so beautiful. The special attention of this group was also drawn to the fact that trains with more carriages need more power, and another locomotive is used behind them to push the train up the hill.
The train stopped at the Great Western Railway Station and the delegation was given the opportunity to get off the train and see the beauty of the area. The beauty of the nature of the highlands showing the Great Western estates and the mountain range, and even the cold waves mixed with the fog that blew in the middle of the day, showed the difference in the natural beauty of this country.
Even though there was a harsh atmosphere in the city of Colombo during the afternoon, the environment changed completely in about five to six hours. Even having a name like Great Western in a railway station in Sri Lanka was surprising to them. The train reached the Nanu Oya station after the Great Western station at around 1.00 pm. The group who came there was welcomed by Nanu Oya station master T. Pradeepan. When the first day’s journey ended in Nanu Oya, the diplomats were put up at the Nuwara Eliya Grand Hotel, itself a symbol of the grandeur of the Hill Country. They also had the opportunity to taste a cup of the world famous “Ceylon Tea” tea at the Pedro Tea Estate.
The diplomats also called on President Ranil Wickremesinghe and First Lady Maithree Wickremesinghe at the President’s House in Nuwara Eliya where they were given a guided tour of the historic building which has many valuable antique items.
The next day, on the morning of July 2, the delegation returned to the Nanu Oya railway station and paid attention to the old railway signalling system, which has been in use since the British era until today. It was also brought to their attention that the signal system is still mostly only used in the railways of Sri Lanka and the tablet system is still used here. They particularly focused on the method of identifying trains by sound in a secure manner without telephones.
The second day commenced from Nanu Oya and the train passed many scenic spots including the Nanu Oya Waterfall, Elgin Waterfall, Pattipola Railway Station (the railway station at the highest elevation), Summit Level (which marks the highest elevation in the islandwide railway system), Ohiya Railway Station, Idalgashinna Waterfall and the 13 tunnels along the way.
The train stopped at Summit Level. The diplomatic delegation got off the train and wondered how the train could climb such a mountain. They all took pictures from the train tracks. They wanted to take pictures with the train crew.
Another experience
Additional General Manager (Operations) V.S. Polwattage arranged the photography session. The train, which had been climbing the mountain till now, started descending after ‘Summit Level’.
It was another experience for them. They were surprised that the train, which was humming along with great effort, was coming down the hill with the silent application of brakes. At one time, they could see the Udarata Menike train coming in front of them hundreds of feet below.
They were also told that only in Sri Lanka could one find 13 tunnels between just two railway stations. They also paid attention to the uniqueness of three of these tunnels.
The specialty of the three tunnels is that when a train of about eight carriages passes one tunnel, the engine passes through the other tunnel before the entire train completes its passage through the tunnels, which are an engineering marvel.
The VIP passengers were also urged to take photographs at the Thangamale Reserve, Kital Ella, the famous Demodera Nine Arch Bridge and the Demodera Loop. Since the train journey ended in Demodera, the group then travelled to Ella by road.
After getting up from the train seats, this group looked at the Thangamale sanctuary near Bandarawela and the turpentine trees that grew about 30 feet high, saying that they had never seen such scenes before. They were also amazed by the Demodera Bridge which has been built without using any iron. They witnessed a train passing this world famous bridge, which is one of the most instagrammed places in the world.
Flora and fauna
The flora and fauna of the region were appreciated by the esteemed guests along with the cleanliness of the railway stations. On the third day, a part of the delegation travelled to Colombo in private vehicles, while the rest travelled to Colombo by train from Ella railway station. The train arriving at the Hatton station was stopped for a while so that they could see the station and its surroundings.
It was felt by all that a quota of train seats on the upland route should be reserved for foreign tourists. The Viceroy Special should also be used more often.
Also, announcements at the railway stations for foreigners should be made in English. Train services such as the Ella Odyssey train, which currently stops and runs at special tourist spots for a few days a week, should be increased to attract more tourists.
By embarking on this special trip to the mountains, not only was the fruitful 75-year relationship with the international community enhanced, but it also served to reaffirm and showcase the diverse local values and tourism attractions of Sri Lanka. It highlighted the country’s exceptional relations and the warm and welcoming nature of its people to the world.
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